Pietro Migliore "The Italian Pioneer of Western Cuisine in Niigata"

Description: Pietro Migliore ピエトロ・ミリオーレ, an Italian cook, made his mark on Niigata in the late 19th century, leaving behind a lasting legacy that helped shape the culinary landscape of Japan. His journey to Niigata began in an unlikely way and his intention was to see other parts of the world during this time. When he arrived in Japan as part of the French equestrian circus, The Soulier. The circus troupe visited Niigata Port around 150 years ago, bringing with it not only entertainment but also the presence of a young Italian cook, Pietro Migliore, who would later be known as "Miora" in Japan.

Arrival: During his time with the circus, Miora suffered a serious injury that prevented him from traveling with the troupe. Left behind in Niigata, Miora was taken in by Gonsuke and his daughter Osui, who had worked with the circus. Their care and support helped him recover, and over time, a bond of trust and friendship formed between them. This bond would later play a crucial role in Miora’s future in Niigata. He started to developed a deep emotional connection to the people of Niigata due to the genuine care and hospitality he received from Gonsuke and his daughter Osui after his injury. The fact that they cared for him during his recovery in a foreign land.

Development: At the time, Niigata was undergoing significant changes as it developed from a bustling port town into an important commercial center. It was during this time that Miora met Masataka Kusumoto, the head chief of Niigata Prefecture. Masataka Kusumoto was a prominent figure in Niigata during the Meiji era, where he served in various administrative roles, including being a government official and influential in regional development. He is often recognized for his contributions to the cultural exchange and modernization of the area. Kusumoto was an advocate for the introduction of Western culture and cuisine, which was part of a larger movement to modernize Japan during the Meiji era, following the country's opening to the world in the mid-1800s.

Business: Kusumoto was impressed by the story of Miora’s hardships and the kindness he had received from the locals. He encouraged Miora to pursue his dream of opening a restaurant, offering his financial backing to support the venture. In 1874, with the support of Kusumoto and the local community, Miora opened Niigata’s first Western Grocery Store in Ichibancho Eishodori. This store marked the beginning of Miora's journey into the world of Western cuisine in Japan. The store, which sold imported Western goods, was a hit among locals, and its success laid the foundation for a new chapter in Miora’s life.

While the store brought prosperity, it wasn’t long before disaster struck. In 1880, the store was destroyed in a devastating fire. This event marked a turning point for Miora, and he found himself at a crossroads, unsure whether he should return to Italy. However, the support and encouragement from the people around him convinced him to stay. Rather than returning to his homeland, Miora decided to stay in Niigata and rebuild his future.

Western-style Restaurant: In the wake of the fire, Miora opened a new restaurant in Nishibori, an area of Niigata, where he established Italiaken, a grand Western-style restaurant. This marked the birth of Hotel Italiaken, which would become known as Japan’s first authentic Western restaurant. The restaurant was celebrated not only for its exceptional food but also for introducing authentic Western dining culture to Japan, becoming a historical landmark in the development of Yoshoku (Western-style Japanese cuisine) and Japanese-Italian cuisine.

Japan's First Pasta: Japan's first meat sauce came from Hotel Italiaken and is the first restaurant in Japan to serve Spaghetti where its origins trace back to Niigata Prefecture. The hotel restaurant "Marco Polo" is famous for its "Traditional Bolognese Meat Spaghetti", however foreigners find it to me small and a bit expensive for a flavor of history. [ref. Katatube broadcast April 19th] As it is a place that is not easy to go to and not viewed as affordable it is difficult for people to access the taste of history of Niigata Spaghetti. During the Meiji period, imported pasta was enjoyed by some enthusiasts, but it was still not available to the general public.

Niigata Bolognese: The grand building that housed Italiaken became a symbol of Miora’s dedication to bringing Western culinary traditions to Japan. His meat sauce spaghetti, made with a Bolognese-style meat sauce, became a hallmark of Italiaken and remains a beloved dish to this day. The restaurant was known as the “true Rokumeikan of Niigata,” referring to the Rokumeikan, a famous Western-style building in Tokyo that symbolized Japan’s embrace of Western culture during the Meiji era.

Materials: In the Taisho era, the head chef who inherited Miora's Will left behind a collection of Italian restaurant recipes that were recorded, developed, and changed as a book that could replicate those original dishes. Rikishi are incredibly interested to own their own part of this incredible history to truly find out what recipes are the guidelines to historic Meiji era and Taisho era Italian Cuisine. While many people believe the sense of mystery is a large draw many are much more interested in the historical depth as they want a grounding to their cooking and to explore the cultural exchange in the recipe ingredients themselves and the culinary evolution of Japanese-Italian Cuisine as a historic reference. 

Pasta Noodle: The big mystery that people have who hear of this story is actually what did Miora's Will entail and the quest for other recipes during the Meiji to Taisho time period. The first domestically produced pasta was made during the Taisho period and it also is part of the overal history of the different shapes of pasta that also include "Macaroni", which had historically been produced in Niigata as something locals ate.

Legacy: Miora's legacy continued even after his return to Italy in 1918 due to strong feelings of homesickness. Despite his eventual passing in 1920, his contributions to Niigata’s food culture lived on through Italiaken, which continued to serve his signature dishes and became a cherished institution in the region. To this day, the taste of Italiaken, passed down through generations of chefs, remains an integral part of Niigata's culinary identity. Many guests who visit Hotel Italiaken continue to enjoy the same beloved dishes that Miora first introduced, maintaining the connection between Niigata and the Italian culinary traditions that Miora brought to the region. Today, Italiaken continues to be a symbol of Niigata’s unique culinary heritage and an example of how food can bring people together, transcending borders and cultures.

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